Paris: Chez L'Éditeur…, 1827. Item #05065
The Exceptionally Rare First Edition
With 105 Beautifully Hand-Colored Lithographed Plates Depicting French Costume
LANTÉ, Louis Marie. GATINE, George Jacques. Costumes des femmes du Pays de Caux et de plusieurs autres parties de l'ancienne province de Normandie; dessinés, la plupart, par M. Lanté, gravés par M. Gatine, et coloriés avec une explication pour chaque planche. Paris: Chez L'Éditeur,1827.
First edition. Folio (12 1/2 x 8 3/4 inches; 318 x 222 mm.). [iv], -46 pp. Hand colored engraved title-page and 105 magnificent hand-colored engraved plates.
Bound ca. 1827 in half brown calf over marbled boards decorated in blind. Spine with four shallow raised bands, decoratively tooled and lettered in gilt in compartments, plain endpapers, all edges sprinkled brown. With the engraved bookplate of Robert-Beauvillain showing a nude lady and signed Ch. Jouas on the front paste-down with "Et Beauvillain? toujours il vous aime." A superb copy, the plates bright, fresh and clean.
Louis-Marie Lanté (1789-1871) was a pupil of Vaudoyer, and exhibited at the Salons from 1824 to 1838. He obtained a silver medal at Lille in 1825. He is especially known for being the most prolific designer of the famous Journal des Dames et des Modes for which he drew fashion figures in watercolor which were engraved by Georges-Jacques Gatine. He also participated in the production of large format suites of plates, which the Journal des Dames et Modes also published. Among them are suites engraved by Georges-Jacques Gatine on regional costumes, especially of Normandy, or foreign countries, on the historical costumes, in particular the "French Gallery of women famous for their talents or beauty, or portraits, drawn engraved and colored." He is responsible for an invaluable testimony, elegant and refined, of the feminine and masculine dresses of the 18th and 19th centuries.
“The engraver Georges-Jacques Gatine (1773-1831 or 1841?) is considered one of the 19th century masters of fashion plate etchings. He was closely associated with L’abbe de la Mesangere who was director of Journal des Dames. Gatine was the engraver for the important portfolio Le Bon Genre (1817) which satirized Parisian social life and proved to be a inspiration for the art of Daumier. Gatine executed several other works based on drawings by Lante. The genre painter Louis-Marie Lante (born 1789) did watercolors for several collections of costume published by Journal des Modes after 1817”.
According to ABPC the only copy of the first edition to appear at auction over the past fifty years was in 1988 (marginal foxing, one plate with three-inch tear).
The owner of the bookplate Robert-Beauvillain has quoted the lines of Victor Hugo as a clever play on his own name? Perhaps he felt the quote conveyed his own personal mad devotion to beautiful women and beautiful books? The engraver Ch. Jouas, an artist and illustrator perhaps best known today for his pen and ink drawings of the gargoyles of Notre Dame. The words "Et Beauvillain toujours il vous aime" (And Beauvillain? He loves you always) come from the opening scene of Victor Hugo's play Marion de Lorme…
Colas 1770; Hiler, p. 526; Lipperheide, 1196 (1830 second edition); Bobins IV, 1241 (1830 second edition).