Paris: Durand ainé, 1830. Item #04827
With 105 Beautifully Hand-Colored Lithographed Plates Depicting French Costume
[LANTÉ, Louis Marie, Pécheux, and GATINE, George Jacques, illustrators]. Cent cinq costumes des départemens de la Seine Inférieure, du Calvados, de la Manche et de l’Orne. Paris: Durand ainé, Rue de la Paix 4, A Caen, chez Mancel, [n.d., ca. 1830].
Second issue. Folio (12 7/8 x 9 1/4 inches; 327 x 235 mm.). Hand-colored engraved title and 105 brilliantly hand-colored engraved plates, some heightened with gum arabic, by Gatine after Lanté and Pécheux (nineteen of the plates are signed Pécheux). Plate numbers 15, 74, 76, 78, 79, 80, 81 and 103 are watermarked "J Whatman". Plate numbers 56, 60, 62, 65, 69, 92 and 97 are watermarked "L & Conte".
Contemporary half tan calf over marbled boards, spine with seven shallow multi-ruled bands, decoratively tooled in compartments in black and lettered in gilt, marbled endpapers. Joints expertly and almost invisibly repaired.
A fine clean copy.
Originally published in Paris in 1827 (Chez l’editeur) with title: Costumes des femmes du pays de Caux, et de plusieurs autres parties de l’ancienne province de Normandie. Dessinés la plupart par M. Lanté, gravés par M. Gatine et coloriés avec une explication pour chaque planche. The first issue also has descriptive text by La Mésangère. According to Colas, the plates in the second issue are the original plates, issued without text and with the frontispiece of the first issue as title. There are two states of the frontispiece: with and without the address of the publisher. In this copy, the frontispiece includes the address of the publisher.
“Les planches de cette second émission me paraissent aussi bonnes que celles de la première” (Colas).
["The plates of this second issue appear as good to me as those of the first"] (Colas).
“The engraver Georges-Jacques Gatine (born 1773) is considered one of the 19th century masters of fashion plate etchings. He was closely associated with L’abbe de la Mesangere who was director of Journal des Dames. Gatine was the engraver for the important portfolio Le Bon Genre (1817) which satirized Parisian social life and proved to be a inspiration for the art of Daumier. Gatine executed several other works based on drawings by Lante. The genre painter Louis-Marie Lante (born 1789) did watercolors for several collections of costume published by Journal des Modes after 1817” (Mead Cain, Printseller, at http://www.costumes.org/HISTORY/100pages/1827peasants.htm).
Colas 1770; Hiler, p. 526; Lipperheide, 1196; Bobins IV, 1241.